not a surfer

Surfing is one of those things that looks fairly easy when you watch others doing it. However, when I tried my hand at it this morning I found out how difficult it truly is. When we first arrived at the beach, the waves were small and there were many close together. The next day, though, the water had changed. The waves were much bigger- in fact they were extremely tall and more spread out. The surfers responded in force. Suddenly the water was full of hundreds of surfers. We enjoyed watching them and decided to give it a try. Cody rented a surf board for the day and asked the guy if these waves were typical. He informed him that this was "classic, dude...the surfers live for this...the storm, dude, has made awesome waves."

We noticed that the surfers mostly sit out past the breaking waves where they can relax on their boards until the wave they want comes along. I soon found though that it was impossible to get past the breaking waves and reach that deeper area. It was a two steps forward, three steps backward approach as the waves knocked me back as I tried to advance. There must be some trick of which I am not aware, so I settled for the middle area which was still a prime area for catching a good wave. I had assumed that jumping onto the board would be a peice of cake. Unfortunately, I felt hopelessly unbalanced and clumsy. I had a 9 foot board which was difficult to turn and manuver. Also the waves kept crashing into me as I waited for the one I wanted to ride. At one point the board slipped away from me and somehow knocked me in the forehead. It still hurts although I am disappointed that a bruise never showed up. I wanted some proof that I really was injured.

When I could see a large wave coming, I would hastily lay on my stomach on the board. Then I would tip from side to side trying to find my balance knowing that in precious few seconds the wave would be there, and if I was still tipped to one side (which I almost always was) I was going to bite it. Sometimes I did balance and rode the wave a bit on my stomach, but kneeling and certainly standing seemed completely hopeless. One time I was riding a wave while laying on the board and I noticed the front start to dip lower and lower. I knew I was about to dive into the water and get flipped but there was nothing I could do about it. Then it came- the nose full of water, the reeling feeling of not being sure which way is up, the board slipping loose and the feeling of a somersault under the water...reaching to find the surface. That was when I decided to go in. My arms were aching, my eyes were burning, my pride was blistered. I had a new found respect for the talents of the surfers I had been watching.

Even though I was unsuccessful, I was glad to try something new. At least I can say I've been surfing..sort of. I was in an ocean with a surfboard. That counts for something, right? Maybe next year.....